This 2019 Château d'Issan exemplifies the heights that Margaux can achieve in a warm, generous vintage. It successfully marries the appellation's trademark elegance with the ripe concentration of 2019, delivering a wine that is immediately seductive yet built for the long term. The interplay between the floral aromatics and the deep, dark fruit core creates a compelling tension, while the refined tannic structure promises two decades of evolution. A masterclass in Third Growth distinction, this wine captures the essence of its terroir—graceful, complex, and utterly sophisticated.
The wine presents with exceptional clarity and depth, characteristic of a well-extracted Left Bank Bordeaux from a warm vintage. The garnet-ruby spectrum suggests both youth and the beginning of polymerization, while the pronounced viscosity hints at the ripe phenolic maturity achieved in 2019. This visual profile promises a wine of substance and aging potential.
The bouquet emerges with immediate Margaux distinction—an ethereal lift of violet petals and crushed rose gardens that seems to float above the glass. Beneath this floral canopy lies a dense core of cassis and wild blackberries, hand-picked at optimal ripeness. As the wine opens, sophisticated oak integration reveals itself through pencil shavings and cedar cigar box aromas, intertwined with a subtle graphite minerality that speaks to the gravelly terroir of the appellation. There is a haunting sweetness to the fruit—almost crystalline in its purity—yet grounded by earthy undertones of forest floor and tobacco leaf that whisper of the vineyard's maturity.
Intensity: Pronounced | Condition: Clean, expressive
Flavours: Blackcurrant cassis, violet petals, graphite pencil lead, cedar wood, dark Morello cherry, cocoa powder, fresh tobacco leaf, crushed rose petals, wet stone minerality, subtle clove spice
Finish: Long and persistent, extending for 45-60 seconds with a graceful fade from dark fruit to floral and mineral notes; leaves an impression of crushed violets and cigar box
Quality: Outstanding
Château d'Issan is situated in the commune of Cantenac on the southern edge of the Margaux appellation, occupying deep gravel mounds known locally as 'tertre' that rise above the surrounding landscape. These deep gravel beds over clay subsoil provide exceptional drainage, forcing vines to root deeply for water and nutrients, while the proximity to the Gironde estuary creates a moderating maritime influence that protects against spring frost and tempers summer heat. The gravel soils store heat during the day and release it at night, aiding phenolic ripeness in Cabernet Sauvignon, while the underlying clay provides water retention during dry periods and contributes to the wine's structural backbone and freshness.
The deep Quaternary gravel provides excellent drainage and thermal retention, stressing the vines to produce small, concentrated berries with thick skins and intense flavors. The clay subsoil retains moisture and nutrients, ensuring vine health during drought and contributing tannins and structure. The limestone bedrock adds minerality and allows for deep root penetration, enhancing the wine's complexity and aging potential.
Diurnal Range: Moderate day-night variation (approximately 10-15°C), tempered by the Gironde estuary's thermal mass and the heat-retaining properties of the gravel soils which continue radiating warmth after sunset
Traditional Bordeaux method with modern precision, emphasizing gentle extraction and terroir expression
Hand-harvested into small crates, triple sorting (on vine, at reception, and optical), fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel and concrete vats (30-35hl capacity), 20-25 day maceration with gentle pump-overs and délestage, malolactic fermentation partially in barrel, aging 16-18 months in French oak barriques (50-60% new wood from coopers such as Seguin Moreau and Taransaud), light egg-white fining if necessary, bottled unfiltered
Respect for the unique Cantenac terroir, seeking elegance and finesse characteristic of Margaux rather than power, with meticulous vineyard management (including horse-plowing in some parcels) to ensure low yields and optimal ripeness
Founded: 12th century (estate traces to 1152), with the château built in the 17th century
Château d'Issan is one of Bordeaux's oldest estates, with origins dating to the marriage of Eleanor of Aquitaine to Henry Plantagenet in 1152, when the wine was served at the wedding. Classified as a Third Growth (Troisième Cru Classé) in the 1855 Exposition Universelle, the estate has been owned by the Cruse family since 1945, with the Lorenzetti family (owners of Château Lilian Ladouys) joining as partners in 2013 to modernize the property while preserving its heritage.
Winemaker: Eric Boissenot (consulting enologist), with Emmanuel Cruse as General Manager
A commitment to expressing the singular terroir of Cantenac through sustainable viticulture and precise, non-interventionist winemaking, aiming for wines of perfume, silkiness, and longevity that exemplify the Margaux appellation