This 2019 Feudi di San Gregorio Taurasi presents a classic portrait of young Aglianico from Irpinia, combining immediate pleasure with serious aging potential. It balances the variety's naturally high acidity and firm tannins with generous dark fruit and sophisticated oak handling, creating a wine of both power and finesse. While already expressive, the structure suggests this wine will reward cellaring for 5-10 years as it develops further tertiary complexity. A compelling expression of Campania's volcanic terroir and one of Southern Italy's noblest grape varieties.
The exceptional depth of colour and brilliant clarity immediately signal a wine of serious concentration and careful extraction. The garnet-purple rim suggests a wine still in its youth but with the chromatic density typical of Aglianico's thick skins. The pronounced viscosity foretells the substantial body and textural weight to come on the palate.
The bouquet erupts from the glass with an intense, almost volcanic energy—immediately captivating with a dense core of dark forest fruits wrapped in a mantle of exotic spice and crushed violets. There is a profound mineral seriousness beneath the fruit, reminiscent of sun-baked basalt and wild Mediterranean scrubland, that speaks to the ancient volcanic soils of Irpinia. As the wine opens, sophisticated oak integration emerges not as woodiness but as subtle smoke and precious hardwood, adding dimension without masking the varietal purity. The overall impression is one of regal composure and latent power, a young monarch still gathering its robes but already displaying the authority for which Taurasi is renowned.
Intensity: Pronounced | Condition: Clean, expressive
Flavours: Blackberry, black cherry, liquorice, violet, vanilla, leather, dark chocolate, volcanic mineral, black pepper, roasted coffee
Finish: Long and persistent, lingering with notes of dark fruit, spice, and savoury mineral complexity for over 60 seconds
Quality: Very Good
Taurasi is situated in the mountainous Irpinia district of Campania, inland from Naples, where vineyards perch on steep slopes at elevations between 400 and 700 meters above sea level. This elevated position creates a unique mesoclimate that moderates the intense southern Italian heat, while the proximity to the Apennine mountain range generates significant air circulation. The terrain is characterized by complex geological formations where volcanic deposits from ancient Pleistocene eruptions intermingle with calcareous marls and clay, creating poor, well-drained soils that stress the vines. This combination of altitude, volcanic minerality, and steep gradients forces Aglianico to develop thick skins and small berries, concentrating flavors while the cool nights preserve the variety's naturally high acidity and tannic backbone.
The volcanic components impart a distinct smoky minerality and iron-rich savoriness to the wine, while the calcareous marls contribute to the structural tension and bright acidity. Clay layers retain moisture during the dry late summer months, crucial for sustaining the late-ripening Aglianico through October harvests, and the overall poor fertility of these soils limits yields, increasing concentration.
Diurnal Range: 15-20°C (27-36°F) variation between daytime highs and nighttime lows during the ripening period of September-October
Modern traditional approach combining temperature-controlled fermentation with extended maceration
Hand-harvested Aglianico undergoes destemming and gentle crushing, followed by fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks at 26-28°C with 15-20 days of skin contact to extract color and polyphenols. The wine is subsequently aged for 12-18 months in French oak barriques (225L) and larger tonneaux, followed by mandatory bottle aging to satisfy the Taurasi DOCG requirement of minimum three years total aging (one year in wood) before commercial release for the 2019 vintage.
Feudi di San Gregorio pursues a balance between respecting the raw power and rustic heritage of Aglianico and refining the wine through modern enology, emphasizing site-specific expression while managing tannins for elegance and longevity
Founded: 1986
Established by the Capaldo family in Sorbo Serpico, province of Avellino, Feudi di San Gregorio emerged as a revolutionary force in Campanian viticulture, transforming a region historically known for bulk wine into a source of premium, terroir-driven bottlings. The winery played a pivotal role in the 1990s quality revolution, investing in modern cellar technology while preserving ancient indigenous varieties and high-elevation vineyards that many had abandoned.
Winemaker: Technical direction under Pierpaolo Sirch with consultancy from Riccardo Cotarella (historical), though specific vintage execution involves the estate enological team
The 'Culture of Wine' philosophy emphasizes the intersection of tradition and innovation, sustainable viticulture, and the expression of Irpinia's unique volcanic terroirs through native grape varieties