This 2018 Exhibition Rioja Blanco exemplifies the traditional oxidative style of the region, offering a masterclass in the marriage of Viura's orchard fruit with the sweet spice and texture of American oak. Now at a delightful stage of evolution, it bridges the gap between primary freshness and tertiary complexity, presenting a wine of substance and sophistication. The integration of oak is seamless, adding layers of vanilla and roasted nuts without overwhelming the fruit, while the palate's creamy weight is perfectly balanced by a gentle, citrus-tinged acidity. A contemplative wine that rewards patient sipping and would pair magnificently with roasted white meats, oily fish, or aged Manchego.
The depth of color immediately signals a traditional Rioja Blanco style with extended oak maturation rather than the modern stainless-steel approach. The brilliant clarity combined with the golden hue suggests a wine of six years' age that is developing gracefully without oxidative faults, while the viscosity hints at the rich, lees-derived texture to come.
The bouquet unfolds with the regal complexity of a traditionally styled Rioja Blanco, weaving together the creamy warmth of seasoned American oak with the honeyed patina of bottle age. Initial impressions evoke sun-warmed orchards and vanilla-scented patisseries, where baked apples and poached pears mingle with the sweet spice of sandalwood and cinnamon. There's an alluring savory depth beneath—hints of roasted nuts and dried hay that speak to patient cellaring, while a subtle waxy, lees-derived richness provides textural intrigue. The overall impression is one of classical elegance: unhurried, contemplative, and distinctly Iberian in its combination of rustic charm and polished refinement.
Intensity: Pronounced | Condition: Clean, expressive
Flavours: Baked apple, vanilla pod, toasted almond, lemon curd, dried hay, honeycomb, brioche, cinnamon spice
Finish: Long and complex, with lingering notes of roasted nuts and sweet spice that persist for 8-10 seconds, leaving a savory, slightly saline impression
Quality: Very Good
This wine originates from Rioja Alta or Alavesa, the higher-elevation subzones of the Rioja DOCa, where vineyards sit between 400-600 meters above sea level. The terroir is characterized by a mix of calcareous clay soils and alluvial terraces deposited by the Ebro River and its tributaries. The proximity to the Sierra de Cantabria mountains creates a rain shadow effect while allowing cool Atlantic breezes to moderate temperatures. This elevation and soil composition provide excellent drainage yet sufficient water retention, forcing vines to develop deep root systems that contribute mineral complexity and structural tension to the white wines. The 2018 vintage benefited from a warm growing season with timely rainfall, producing Viura with ripe phenolics while maintaining the acidity essential for age-worthy white Rioja.
The calcareous clay provides a mineral backbone and fresh acidity, while alluvial soils contribute to fruit purity and early ripening. These soils stress the vines moderately, concentrating flavors in the Viura grapes and contributing to the wine's characteristic structure and longevity.
Diurnal Range: Significant temperature variation of 15-20°C between day and night, with daytime highs reaching 25-30°C and nighttime lows dropping to 10-15°C during ripening
Traditional Rioja blanco approach combining temperature-controlled fermentation with subtle oak influence
Predominantly Viura (Macabeo) with possible small percentages of MalvasĂa Riojana, harvested at optimal ripeness to balance sugar and acidity. Fermentation likely occurred partially or entirely in neutral American oak barrels (the traditional Rioja method) or a combination of stainless steel and French oak, followed by 3-6 months aging on fine lees with occasional bâtonnage to build texture. The Exhibition tier typically receives more lees contact and oak integration than entry-level white Rioja, emphasizing complexity over primary fruit.
The Wine Society's Exhibition range emphasizes classical regional expression and value, favoring the traditional, age-worthy style of white Rioja—textural, mineral, and oxidative-resistant—over the simpler, immediately fruity modern stainless-steel style.
Founded: 1874
The Wine Society is the world's oldest wine club, founded as a mutual organization by a group of Victorian philanthropists to provide members with access to quality wines at fair prices. The 'Exhibition' range was established in the early 20th century (first appearing around the 1920s) to showcase exceptional examples of classic wine styles, originally selecting wines that had won medals at international exhibitions. Today, it remains their flagship own-label tier, sourced from established, often family-owned producers who craft wines to The Wine Society's exacting specifications.
Winemaker: Produced in collaboration with a selected high-quality Rioja producer (specific partner varies by vintage; historically associated with traditional houses in Haro or Laguardia)
Democratic access to fine wine through cooperative purchasing, emphasizing typicity, terroir expression, and cellar-worthiness over commercial branding